Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate CAS 183476-82-6

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP) is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative widely used in cosmetics, including but not limited to serums, lotions, creams, mists, and sheet masks. The typical recommended use level is 0.1%–2.0%. During formulation, the pH should not exceed 6.0 to maintain stability and performance.

VC-IP exhibits excellent stability, skin penetration, and in-skin conversion capacity. Its esterified, higher-molecular-weight structure enables very high stability ex vivo; at room temperature, its activity can remain above 85% after 6 months. Although the molecule is relatively large, its oil solubility confers strong affinity for the stratum corneum and allows rapid passage across cell membranes, delivering good percutaneous absorption. Inside cells, VC-IP converts to vitamin C whose antioxidant activity may even surpass that of the parent ascorbic acid, providing robust protective and nourishing effects for the skin.

Adding a chelating agent and an antioxidant (e.g., tocopherol) can further enhance stability. Avoid prolonged heating to prevent oxidation. These measures help ensure optimal performance and long-term efficacy of VC-IP in cosmetic formulations.

Basic Information

• English name: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
• CAS No.: 183476-82-6
• Molecular formula: C₇₀H₁₂₈O₁₀
• Molecular weight: 1129.76
• EINECS/EC No.: 430-110-8

Product Specification

Key Benefits

• Excellent transdermal absorption: Penetrates the skin barrier effectively and converts in situ to vitamin C to exert biological activity.
• Inhibition of melanogenesis: Suppresses intracellular tyrosinase activity to reduce melanin production, helping brighten skin and fade spots.
• Antioxidant protection: Mitigates UV-induced cellular and DNA damage, prevents lipid peroxidation and photo-aging, and delivers strong antioxidant effects.
• Anti-aging support: Promotes and protects collagen synthesis, improving elasticity and firmness while reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
• Thermal and oxidative stability: Maintains stability under elevated temperature and oxidative conditions, improving formulation robustness.
• Cellular metabolism boost: Activates cellular metabolism and supports collagen production, aiding repair and regeneration.
• Helps with stubborn acne and hyperpigmentation: With long-term use, can reduce persistent acne and facial pigment deposition, improving texture and tone uniformity.

Comparison with Other Vitamin C Derivatives

(Image source: web)
The unique esterified structure of VC-IP affords high ex-vivo stability and good skin penetration, with efficient intracellular conversion to a potent antioxidant form of vitamin C—often outperforming free ascorbic acid. Its gentle profile also makes it a suitable option for consumers who do not tolerate ingredients such as niacinamide, underscoring VC-IP’s broad potential in skincare.

Performance Studies

With antioxidant-vitamin formulations proliferating, stability evaluation is essential for product quality. Comparative studies of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate in a base cream using thermogravimetric (TG/DTG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) show both vitamins exhibit good stability below 250 °C.

Molecular-dynamics simulations of VC-IP transport in skin examined percutaneous absorption pathways. Results indicate VC-IP diffuses through the funnel-shaped hair follicle route more slowly than through the stratum corneum and shows higher mobility but lower affinity within follicles. By contrast, it has stronger affinity for the stratum corneum with a more direct penetration pathway.

Cosmetic Use Cases

Formulations containing VC-IP and rice peptides—such as sunscreens and skincare products—can improve signs of photo-aging in young women. Double-blind randomized controlled data suggest VC-IP increases skin hydration, improves structure, reduces pigmentation, and accelerates epidermal turnover. Daily use of VC-IP antioxidant formulas can help prevent and mitigate photo-aging issues, especially in individuals without established photoprotection habits.

As a lipophilic ascorbic-acid derivative, VC-IP serves primarily as an antioxidant, emollient, and skin-conditioning agent. It provides photoprotective benefits and is widely used in anti-aging products, sunscreens, and skin-tone evening (de-pigmenting) creams.

By reducing free radicals and promoting synthesis of dermal proteins (e.g., collagen), VC-IP can markedly improve the histological features of photo-aged skin. Studies report reductions in keratinocyte apoptosis and sunburn cells. In a “tri-active” serum, VC-IP works synergistically with melatonin and bakuchiol to restore skin structure and function and enhance overall antioxidant capacity.

Clinical evaluation of a VC-IP tri-active facial serum over 12 and 24 weeks showed significant improvements in texture, pigmentation, erythema, overall tone, and wrinkles, with particularly notable wrinkle reduction on the forehead and marionette lines. Although dermal and epidermal thickness increased, the changes did not reach statistical significance.

Regarding anti-aging outcomes and tolerability, the VC-IP tri-active serum significantly reduced wrinkles, increased firmness, and improved overall complexion and skin quality. Participants rated its cosmetic properties highly. It demonstrated good tolerance and safety across skin types, including oily skin, indicating broad suitability as an effective anti-aging product.

Example Products

• Puli “Repair & Radiance Essence” – A facial serum containing VC-IP, positioned for repair, anti-wrinkle, firming, and soothing. Suitable for general use, especially on the face. Cream-lotion texture; apply after cleansing and toning. Also includes ingredients such as Anogeissus leiocarpa bark extract, hydrogenated lecithin, and ergothioneine for combined antioxidant, moisturizing, soothing, and anti-aging effects.
• Yurong Chucang Saffron Revitalizing Face Oil – Contains VC-IP as an active with antioxidant and anti-aging benefits. The formula also features Crocus sativus (saffron) flower extract, Crithmum maritimum (sea fennel) extract, and Acmella oleracea extract, among others, offering antioxidant, soothing, anti-aging, and reparative actions. Apply evenly to facial skin and massage gently to aid absorption.
• PROYA Nourishing Facial Oil – Includes VC-IP among its actives and multiple botanical oils such as jojoba seed oil, macadamia integrifolia seed oil, and meadowfoam seed oil, working together to provide moisturizing, antioxidant, anti-aging, and soothing effects. The product also contains tocopherol (vitamin E) for added antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and firming benefits, with a low comedogenic risk.